We have had a few cool nights recently which are just wonderful, sleeping with the windows open. I cannot remember the last time we had a real spring like we experienced this year, with plenty of gentle rain. This beneficial rain is wonderful for all the spring plant growth and such a pleasure freshening the air for us all.
I am so in awe of the miracle of Mother Nature and the symbiotic relationship between plants and all of God’s creatures. When I looked out of my window from my old home in Old Lyme, a few years ago, I could see the buds opening on my long border of peonies which had been planted by the original homeowner in the early nineteen hundreds. As I looked, I recalled the symbiotic relationship between ants and peonies.
A question often asked of me is “Maureen, should I worry about ants on my peonies?” My answer, “That’s not a problem, lots of ants on the peonies just illustrate that you have healthy plants with big buds that are producing bountiful nectar which attracts the ants.” Ants are very useful creatures; their presence indicates that there are aphids and whiteflies in that area of your garden and the ants feed on these troublesome insects.
Make sure that your peonies get plenty of water, also check the PH of the soil which should register between 6.5 and 7.0. In early June, I pinched off the side buds of the Peonies, as by doing this, you will produce big terminal blooms on the plant. When the bloom has passed, apply a light application of composted manure to encourage the soil animals and the manure bacteria to keep your soil healthy.
A word of caution: Do not cut the peonies to about six inches from the ground, until after the first frost in November. Before then, in September, plant or transplant Peonies to barely cover the pink eyes on the roots with soil, just enough so the plant does not fall over.
Now, in late spring, many insect pests are appearing in large numbers in your garden. I just looked out of my patio door and noticed that it is past time for me to tend my perennial border there where my Nepeta, Salvia, daylilies and other perennials are getting inundated with weeds and insects of every denomination. I am the answer to the weeds, but a useful creature against the pests is the lowly toad.
I suggest putting some toad houses in and around your borders. You can purchase toad houses from the garden center, or you can use an old clay pot that is cracked and make sure that the crack is two to four inches wide to act as a door so the toad can enter. In addition, put a small saucer as a floor under the pot with some rocks, and keep the rocks damp, so that your friendly toad enjoying their toad abode will settle in comfortably and snack on all the pesky bugs.
June is the month when roses begin to bloom. I have always used David Austin roses in my garden and in my landscape designs. I find David Austin roses are the most trouble-free roses and offer great rewards; among those rewards are that they are repeat bloomers with wonderful fragrances and colors.
Some of my favorite David Austin roses are:
- ‘A Shropshire Lad,’ a soft peachy pink.
- ‘Abraham Darby’ with petals that are a blend of apricot and yellow.
- ‘Fair Bianca,’ a pure white.
- ‘Heritage,’ which opens as a soft clear pink.
- My favorite is ‘Evelyn’. Evelyn has a large apricot saucer shaped bloom with a fragrance that is second to none offering a luscious fruity tone, of fresh peaches and apricots.
Feed your roses with composted manure, keeping the manure and mulch about six inches away from the base of the rose and add a few more inches of manure once a month until mid-August. At that time stop feeding so the roses can gently move into a much-needed slow dormancy. No other rose food is required except the manure and the mulch which attracts carbon from the atmosphere which in turn produces the humus component.
Unfortunately, Japanese beetles are attracted to roses, so I suggest acquiring Japanese beetle traps which should be placed far away from your borders on the perimeter of the property. If you find some Japanese beetles have escaped the traps and landed on the rose, then in the early morning, quietly take a white sheet and place it under the rose and gently shake the bush. You will find the beetles do not awaken and will fall onto the sheet, which can be gathered up and the beetles dumped into your closed trash bin.
A tip for keeping cut roses fresh is to cut the roses in the early morning, just above a five-leaf cluster, and place stems in a container of lukewarm water. Then, when indoors, recut the stems at a one and half inch angular cut, under warm running water, and place cut roses in a vase filled with warm water. Do not remove the thorns from cut roses, removing the thorns reduces their indoor life by as much as three days.
HYDRANGEAS:
These need plenty of water, as before they were introduced to our gardens they flourished in wetland areas. Apply aged manure around the hydrangeas, which should be planted in full sun and spaced at least four feet apart for good ventilation to prevent mildew from occurring. If you have blue hydrangea macrophylla and want a more vibrant shade of blue, add some peat moss on top of the manure. The acidity in the peat will produce a lovely deep shade of blue.
WISTERIA:
Regular pruning through spring and summer is the main factor to help this arrogant vine to flower. Prune several times during the growing season, which means pruning every two weeks by at least six inches on each stem.
CLEMATIS WILT:
If you have this problem with the clematis, you will notice it early because the shoots wilt and die. This disease is impossible to cure, as it is soil born. Soil born means that it is not possible to plant another clematis of that variety in that area of the garden. However, you can plant the viticella variety; Clematis viticella are vigorous, free flowering blooms and are not susceptible to wilt. Some good choices of this variety are Blue Belle, Etoile Violette, both are purple and Huldine, which is white.
MULCHING:
Mulch your gardens this month when the soil has warmed up to 55 degrees. As you perform that task, be careful around trees. Apply the mulch at least six inches from the base of the trunk; any closer can cause rot and disease to occur in the bark and roots of the tree.
Also, trees that are mulched too close to the trunk invite mice and other rodents to inhabit the tree and gnaw on the trunk. Your garden can be mulched to a depth of between two and three inches with a natural fine dark brown hardwood mulch. Please do not use dyed RED MULCH, which is poisonous. Keep your garden natural, without any poisonous herbicides and pesticides.
CONTAINER GARDENS:
If you have room for one pot you have room for a number placed close together with different shapes and sizes creates your own miniature garden. Apart from regular pots, the most unexpected objects make interesting containers.
A friend who cut down trees this past winter left the stumps and hollowed them out to make containers. One large and two smaller stumps together made an interesting combo.
Also check in your basement, shed or barn to see if you have an old wheelbarrow, even if the wheelbarrow has a missing wheel like mine, which I painted blue with eco-conscious paint. Then I placed it near the kitchen door filled with bright colored vines, miniature grasses and small perennials.
Or you may unearth a large ceramic jar like the one I came across in one of the original cattle stalls of the stone and soil floored barn. This antique three-foot-tall ceramic vinegar container, replete with a hole where the vinegar tap was inserted, is ideal for drainage. I planted the jar with multi-colored perennials, which looked great on my newly painted blue bench alongside my red milk shed.
LAWN CARE:
Do not forget to add organic grub control through July, so that you help to keep down the mole infestation; remember no grubs means less food for the moles.
POWDERY MILDEW:
Keep an eye open for powdery mildew, especially after rain when humidity returns. My recipe for powdery mildew is as follows:
In a sprayer, mix two tablespoons of baking soda, one tablespoon of vegetable or horticultural oil in a gallon of water and spray the mildew.
Hydrangeas and Summer phlox are particularly prone to develop this problem. To help counteract the mildew problem, I recommend using phlox Miss Lingard or phlox David, which are the white phlox and are the most mildew resistant.
Monarda, commonly known as bee balm, are also affected by mildew, and the one I have found to be the most resistant is “Cambridge Scarlet.”
I hope these tips are useful to you during this busy time of year in the garden. Remember to stretch, hydrate and enjoy the burgeoning promise of your garden and I’ll see you next month. If you would like some more gardening advice, contact my son Ian at LlandscapesbyIan.com. I am sure you would enjoy speaking with him as he is full of knowledge and, as the saying goes, “The apple does not fall far from the tree.”
If you would like to ask me a gardening question, please email me MaureenHaseleyJones@gmail.com.
About the author: Maureen Haseley-Jones is a member of a family of renowned horticultural artisans, whose landscaping heritage dates back to the 17th century. She is one of the founders, together with her son Ian, of The English Lady Landscape and Home Company. Maureen and Ian are landscape designers and garden experts who believe that everyone deserves to live in an eco-conscious environment and enjoy the pleasure that it brings. Maureen learned her design skills from both her mother and grandmother, and honed her horticultural and construction skills while working in the family nursery and landscape business in the U.K. Her formal horticultural training was undertaken at the Royal Botanic Gardens at Kew in Surrey.
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